As I said earlier (Did I?) railroad system of South America is almost ruined compared to XX century, so when we went to Temuco by one of the last trains, Chilean machinists pushed the button of the train whistle all the time. Here we go! Trains are the best. Temuco, the capital of free Araucania (they won all battles against Incas, Spanish, and Chileans) now's ruined too - state of life of modern Mapuche is looking like they working for trade balance surplus of China all the time of their lives (as all we are). Then Villarica. The Villarica lake, a bus station, a canyon near the town. For a couple of dollars, local old-timers can provide you information and knowledge how to get the real big fish from this lake. For giggles, I decided to do it by myself. On the road to the river, I got the asthmatic attack (spell of angry old-timers, I suppose), so that night all the fishes could keep their own plans for the future. I started to look at the mountain. Have never seen smth like that before.



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